This is the physical half of moving in. For locks, paperwork, utilities, and the rest of the setup sequence, pair it with the new homeowner checklist.
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Every one of these is designed to be cleaned or swapped on a schedule. Most owners don’t know half of them exist — which means the previous owner probably didn’t either.The filters nobody mentioned
Clean the dryer vent — the whole duct, not the lint screen
Pull the dryer out and clean the duct from the machine to the outside wall cap. Years of packed lint makes the dryer run hot and long, and it’s the classic preventable house fire. If the run is long or crushed flexible foil, replace it with smooth rigid duct while you’re there. Clothes suddenly drying in one cycle instead of two is the usual reward.If you skip it: Lint-clogged ducts are one of the leading causes of house fires — and until then, every load costs double the electricity.Find and scrub the dishwasher filter
Twist out the cylindrical filter under the bottom spray arm and wash it in the sink. If nobody has ever done this, you’ll know — it explains every “the dishwasher smells” and “glasses come out gritty” complaint. Two minutes, once a month, from now on.Replace the HVAC filter and write the size on the vent
Put in a fresh filter, then note the size somewhere you’ll see it (marker on the return grille works). While the panel is open, check the previous owner didn’t jam in a too-small filter or run without one — dust caked on the blower says it all.If you skip it: A choked filter makes the system work harder for less comfort and shortens the life of a five-figure appliance.How long does an HVAC system last?Swap the fridge water filter and vacuum the coils
The water/ice filter has a rated life measured in months, not owners. Then pull the fridge out (or pop the base grille) and vacuum the condenser coils — a furred coil makes the compressor run constantly.Degrease the range hood filter
The metal mesh above the stove is a grease trap that most people never once remove. Run it through the dishwasher or soak it in degreaser. If it’s a recirculating hood with a charcoal filter, that filter is disposable — replace it.2
Shutoffs only matter during the worst ten minutes of homeownership. Learn them on a calm Saturday, because “where is my water shutoff” is a terrible thing to be searching while the ceiling drips.Find every shutoff before you need one
Locate the main water shutoff — and prove it turns
Usually where the line enters the house: basement front wall, crawl space, garage, or near the water heater. Actually turn it off and on once; older gate valves seize in the open position, and discovering that mid-flood helps nobody. If it’s seized, a plumber can swap it for a quarter-turn ball valve.If you skip it: Burst supply lines dump water by the minute. Knowing this valve is the difference between a mop-up and a five-figure insurance claim.Check the per-fixture valves under sinks and behind toilets
Every sink, toilet, and the washing machine should have its own working shutoff, so a drippy faucet doesn’t mean shutting down the whole house. Turn each one; anything seized or weeping goes on the fix list.Find the gas meter shutoff and the outdoor spigot valves
Know where the gas shutoff at the meter is and keep a wrench that fits nearby (turn it only in a real emergency — the utility relights). Trace any interior valves that feed outdoor spigots too; you’ll want them every winter.3
Water systems fail quietly, then all at once. An hour here is the highest-leverage inspection in the house.The water heater and everything that drains
Date the water heater and check the anode rod
Decode the manufacture date from the serial number (the maker’s website will translate it). The anode rod inside the tank sacrifices itself to protect the steel liner — if it has never been checked, it’s likely spent, and a spent anode is how tanks rust from the inside. Have it inspected and replaced if needed; it’s the single cheapest way to buy the tank more years.If you skip it: A failed tank usually announces itself by flooding whatever room it lives in.How long does a water heater last?Clear the AC condensate drain
Central air and high-efficiency furnaces drip condensate down a small line that clogs with algae. Find where it exits, confirm it actually drips while the system runs, and clear a sluggish line with a wet/dry vacuum at the outlet. A cup of vinegar down the access tee each season keeps it clear.If you skip it: A blocked line either shuts the system down on the hottest week of the year or overflows into the ceiling below the air handler.Test the sump pump — now, not during the storm
Pour a bucket of water into the pit and confirm the pump kicks on and the water leaves. Check the discharge pipe outside actually carries water away from the foundation. If the house has a pit but you have no idea how old the pump is, price a replacement — they’re not expensive, and they only fail during the exact weather that made you need them.How long does a sump pump last?Replace rubber washing machine hoses with braided lines
The two rubber hoses behind the washer are under full house pressure around the clock, and old rubber bursts. Braided stainless replacements cost little and screw on by hand. While the washer is out, this is also the moment you clean that dryer duct.If you skip it: A burst washer hose is a firehose in the house until someone finds the shutoff — a classic total-flood claim.4
Finish with the checks that assume nothing: the previous owner’s “it’s fine” is not an inspection.